Forget the picture menus on Calle Larios. Real Málaga eating is about a handful of local specialities done well, usually standing at a tiled bar with a cold drink in hand.
Start with espeto de sardinas — sardines skewered and grilled over driftwood on the beach, eaten with your fingers. It is the single most Málaga thing you can eat, and the chiringuitos of Pedregalejo and El Palo do it best.
In the centre, order boquerones (fresh anchovies, fried or in vinegar), porra antequerana (a thick, garlicky cold tomato soup) and a glass of the local sweet Pedro Ximénez or dry Moscatel.
For tapas with a modern twist, head to Soho and bars like Kortxo. For the full tiled-bodega experience, El Pimpi is touristy but fun; for value, Casa Lola pours vermouth by the barrel.
A final rule: lunch is the main meal, served late (2–4pm), and dinner rarely starts before 9pm. Adjust your clock and you will eat far better.
